Exile in Sydney 1

 Do you ever think that things are loaded against you?  In these covid times it seems quite reasonable.  Jac and I are on the road again - this time to visit Em for Christmas.  The plan was the whole family would travel to Sydney so we could have Christmas with Em and Sean's family.   And what happens - a COVID outbreak in Sydney, which means that we may not be able to get back to Victoria without 14 days quarantine.  For me that's not a huge issue, I can just hang around in Sydney until the border opens.  But for Bec and family the implications are much more serious - not being able to work, manage the business etc etc.  

On the way I stopped in Albury at a comfortable and very dog friendly Air B'nB in East Albury.  Last time I was in Albury I was aiming to beat the border closure the other way - NSW closing their border to Victoria.  Now it's the other way around.  Understandable given the work that Victorians put in to achieve where we are at now, but does throw the Christmas plans into disarray. I had booked for two nights thinking I would explore NE Victoria, which I did after applying for and receiving a permit to cross the border. Was reminded of the joys of Albury, going to a local farmers market and a walk along the Murray through wetlands.

This time Lake Hume was full.  I cannot remember ever seeing that.  So swam in the lake, which, when full, apparently has more water than Sydney Harbour.  Lots of little inlets and nooks to explore.  The weather was perfect, so started off at Lake Hume Village resort, then crossed the architectural marvel of Bethanga Bridge, a steel truss bridge that is almost a kilometre long, no longer the rattling wooden boards I remember from my childhood, but a quiet surface on it now.  Stopped in Bellbridge for another swim, then headed off to Bethanga.  This was very much revisiting the roads and landscapes of the time we lived lived in Tallangatta and witnessed houses being put on trucks and carted to the new town as the old one was going to be flooded. The familiarity of the road and the dry yellow hills dotted with gum trees was comforting. 

Seemed sunset over the dam would be worthwhile.  Most of the places around Bellbridge were still populated by boats and people picnicking on the shores.  But found a beautiful little inlet a bit out of town where there were no other people and so many birds: rosellas, cockatoos, swallows darting about over the water and, of course, pelicans.  Jac and I had a lovely quiet time watching the colours change, the suns reflections in the water and the occasional fish leaping out.  I think Jac was just happy that we weren't going on yet another long walk.  

Then a stopover in Canberra to see friends, always good to connect again and know that those friendships are sustained over time even when we don't see each other often.  And now I'm in Sydney, and it's so good to be here.  It won't be the Christmas we planned but somehow that seems fitting for the year that we have had which has taken away the idea of certainty or the benefits of planning.   It's the first Christmas without Sean, a big thing to get through, the pain and grief continually just below the surface.

The doggies watching fro Em getting home

Do love being here, apart from Emily's company, the walks along the windy streets and lanes, the old terrace houses, some big and grand, some so narrow you wonder at the size of the rooms, and some just comfortably spacious.  The footpaths with the gardens, big old trees, weedy little plots and carefully cultivated plants.  Frangipani and Bouganvillea petals falling on the footpath, little cul de sacs, coffee and bars everywhere.  In the evening went to the movies, first time for at least a year, to see The Rams starring Sam Neill.  I was the only person in the cinema so social distancing not really a problem.  On the walk home the sky put on a stunning show of colour. 

Lots of options for walks with Jac, through the streets and Lanes, a drive down to Rushcutters Bay or Centennial Park to have a paddle and a roll in the grass.  The dogs are all quite comfortable with each other now, so it's all very relaxed. 

On the road again and Encounters with other animals

This year I wanted to get away from doing the usual things over Christmas.  Even though Erwin was never into Christmas, we have developed a tradition of celebrating at Rye with Beci and Raph and the boys.  It made me think that I am not alone, I do have a wonderful circle of family (particularly Bec and Em) and friends. But, Christmas and New Year is one of those times when you are surrounded by memories and everyone is talking about families, so the challenge was to do something different this year.  

So Jac and I headed off on another road trip to Em's in Sydney,  But this time, after consultation with Jac, I decided to do it so I had a little bit of time to explore in the places I stopped.  First one was Woolshed Cabins just outside of Beechworth.  About a 3 hour drive from Melbourne, so got there early afternoon, enough time to go for a swim in Lake Sambell which is in Beechworth.  The Lake has lovely sandy beaches and clear, cool water.   There were a few family groups there but otherwise very peaceful.  Jack did her usual wading in unto her tummy, then waited by the shoreline while I had a swim.  She also made a few people friends - she is good at just sitting nearby a group until they notice her and pat her.  The Cabins were perfect, in the bush, and of course we were greeted by the obligatory black labrador.  There was a beautiful rock outcrop on the hill behind the cabin, perfect setting to watch the sunset, and a track to walk around the property, so we were both happy.

Jac enjoying the sunset

In the morning we had a bit of a tour around Beechworth, driving the Gorge trail and stopping for a slightly hazardous climb down to the creek in the Gorge.  Basically climbing down one very smooth and steep rock.  Jac managed fine, I did it very gingerly. Our next stop was Albury for a quick dip in the Murray at Noreuil Park.  Perfect stopping spot, easy access to he river, The Riverpark Cafe serves great coffee, clean toilets and dogs allowed off leash.  They also having drinking bowls for dogs - although I do carry a container of water and a bowl (fancy folding one now thanks to Em) and give her a drink every time we stop.  Had to make a stop after that at Tarcutta to see the craft shop which has been there forever and sells stuff made by local crafts people, including beautiful pottery by a local potter.  We have a number of her mugs which were Erwin's favourite, so I bought a bowl there to use for Jac's food along the way.

Overnight was at Jugiong Motor Inn.  My first thought when i pulled up was 'mm maybe I'll go straight on to Sydney'.  Entrance to my room was over a concrete path from the car park, few rubbish bags lying around and laundry hanging.  However it was a bit like  Alice Through the Looking Glass. Once in the room, there was another door which opened out on to a lovely green courtyard with lots of comfy chairs and bench tables. Next to the Motor Inn was a paddock with Alpacas, sheep and an enormous pig which all made Jac a little nervous.  In the morning I opened the door to the courtyard to find the sheep wandering around.  The sheep galloped over to greet Jac who after reluctantly allowing it to sniff at her, went for safety under table.  

A meeting of two minds?

The owner of the Motor Inn directed me across the road to the river, so we could swim in the Murrumbidgee.  The entrance to the river was a little muddy but once in it was fine.  Jac paddles at the edges and waits patiently while I swim.    Went to the Sir George for dinner, had a courtyard where we could sit and Jac is very good at waiting patiently while I go in and order, although if there is anyone nearby who she thinks might pat her she will sit forlornly nearby waiting for them to, so I can come back to find her quietly accepting being fussed over.   In this case she found a family at the next table who thought she was beautiful.  One of the good things that has happened in Australia over the last couple of decades is the development of good food and coffee places, that often use the local produce.  I remember our family trips along the Hume where we mostly took our own food because the food along the way was so limited.  Those were the days when if a cafe advertised that they had cappuccino you had to ask them what coffee they used to make it because for some the definition of cappuccino was instant coffee with some frothy cream on top.  Now it's veritable gourmet treats in most places, even the big super stops on the highway have Olivers now which has quite reasonable food.

From Jugiong it was an easy drive to Sydney although we did stop for another swim in the Wingecaribee River at Berrima.  Deep water holes and rocks on the other side that people jump off, I did not.  Surprisingly the roads were not that busy, given it was Christmas Eve.  Was good to arrive at Em's and get comfortable as well as have a dip in their spa/pool.  I love the way her and Sean are able to produce a meal working together without any fuss.  The dogs were remarkably well behaved, not the level of excitement that we had the first time.  While I was there I walked the dogs all together in Centennial Park, both with Em and on my own and I think that helped them all settle down.  We had a lovely Christmas Day wiht my first experience of seeing a whole turkey cooked and it was beautiful.  Done under the direction of Em's sister in Law who was visiting from the UK.  


Went swimming in Bondi, the advantage of having Em living in Sydney is she goes to the North of the beach where the rock pools are and again we could take the dogs and the crowds are not quite so overwhelming.  Jac loves the water but not at a depth where she has to swim. So she was a bit nonplussed when she fell into one of the rock pools which was quite deep so had to swim a bit to find a place where she could get out.  Still the tail was wagging when she finally clambered out.  

Beci and the boys arrived in Sydney in time for me to spend time with the boys while Bec went out partying.  Loved their BnB with a swimming pool and just 5 minutes walk from Ems.  But because my plan is to spend New Years Eve alone (well just with Jac) I headed off to Jindabyne.  While we weren't big celebrators of New Years we did have some pretty spectacular ones and we did manage to spend 39 New Years Eves together, this one would have been the 40th.  Those closest to my heart were when we were in Falls Creek and we would go to the top of Mt Mckay and watch the spectacular sunsets over the ranges, purples and blues of the mountains that just seemed to go on forever.  We would have our dog of the day with us.  So to know how Jac and I coped with New Years Eve you'll have to read the next blog......