Exile in Sydney 1

 Do you ever think that things are loaded against you?  In these covid times it seems quite reasonable.  Jac and I are on the road again - this time to visit Em for Christmas.  The plan was the whole family would travel to Sydney so we could have Christmas with Em and Sean's family.   And what happens - a COVID outbreak in Sydney, which means that we may not be able to get back to Victoria without 14 days quarantine.  For me that's not a huge issue, I can just hang around in Sydney until the border opens.  But for Bec and family the implications are much more serious - not being able to work, manage the business etc etc.  

On the way I stopped in Albury at a comfortable and very dog friendly Air B'nB in East Albury.  Last time I was in Albury I was aiming to beat the border closure the other way - NSW closing their border to Victoria.  Now it's the other way around.  Understandable given the work that Victorians put in to achieve where we are at now, but does throw the Christmas plans into disarray. I had booked for two nights thinking I would explore NE Victoria, which I did after applying for and receiving a permit to cross the border. Was reminded of the joys of Albury, going to a local farmers market and a walk along the Murray through wetlands.

This time Lake Hume was full.  I cannot remember ever seeing that.  So swam in the lake, which, when full, apparently has more water than Sydney Harbour.  Lots of little inlets and nooks to explore.  The weather was perfect, so started off at Lake Hume Village resort, then crossed the architectural marvel of Bethanga Bridge, a steel truss bridge that is almost a kilometre long, no longer the rattling wooden boards I remember from my childhood, but a quiet surface on it now.  Stopped in Bellbridge for another swim, then headed off to Bethanga.  This was very much revisiting the roads and landscapes of the time we lived lived in Tallangatta and witnessed houses being put on trucks and carted to the new town as the old one was going to be flooded. The familiarity of the road and the dry yellow hills dotted with gum trees was comforting. 

Seemed sunset over the dam would be worthwhile.  Most of the places around Bellbridge were still populated by boats and people picnicking on the shores.  But found a beautiful little inlet a bit out of town where there were no other people and so many birds: rosellas, cockatoos, swallows darting about over the water and, of course, pelicans.  Jac and I had a lovely quiet time watching the colours change, the suns reflections in the water and the occasional fish leaping out.  I think Jac was just happy that we weren't going on yet another long walk.  

Then a stopover in Canberra to see friends, always good to connect again and know that those friendships are sustained over time even when we don't see each other often.  And now I'm in Sydney, and it's so good to be here.  It won't be the Christmas we planned but somehow that seems fitting for the year that we have had which has taken away the idea of certainty or the benefits of planning.   It's the first Christmas without Sean, a big thing to get through, the pain and grief continually just below the surface.

The doggies watching fro Em getting home

Do love being here, apart from Emily's company, the walks along the windy streets and lanes, the old terrace houses, some big and grand, some so narrow you wonder at the size of the rooms, and some just comfortably spacious.  The footpaths with the gardens, big old trees, weedy little plots and carefully cultivated plants.  Frangipani and Bouganvillea petals falling on the footpath, little cul de sacs, coffee and bars everywhere.  In the evening went to the movies, first time for at least a year, to see The Rams starring Sam Neill.  I was the only person in the cinema so social distancing not really a problem.  On the walk home the sky put on a stunning show of colour. 

Lots of options for walks with Jac, through the streets and Lanes, a drive down to Rushcutters Bay or Centennial Park to have a paddle and a roll in the grass.  The dogs are all quite comfortable with each other now, so it's all very relaxed. 

On the road again, escape from Victoria

 I've been planning to visit Em, my daughter in Sydney once restrictions eased.  We'd planned it for a time when she was not too busy with work.  We'd planned an overnight stay on the Hawkesbury and I was quite excited about it.  And then, Monday morning Dan Andrews gives a press conference, the borders with NSW will be closed from Midnight on Tuesday.  And all of Greater Melbourne is declared a hotspot.  Despite the Mornington Peninsula being over 100 kilometres from Melbourne, despite having no new cases there for weeks, suddenly I was in a hotspot.  

Don't get me wrong, I fully support what the Victorian Government is doing.  The numbers are so high, it is important to get on top of that and strong restrictions are needed to do it.  I consulted with the family and got messages like just get in the car and go.

I have been isolating anyway pretty much, not going out, had a couple of solo visitors to my place, but with physical distancing.  Biggest event for me was a visit from Beci and Raph and a walk along the beach with them. I tried to get a Covid test at our local respiratory clinic but was told because I had no symptoms, the answer was no.  So I chucked what I needed in the car,  booked a dog friendly motel in Albury and hit the road.  Unusually for me I did not stop, one short roadside stop for Jack to have a pee and short walk and that was it.  I wanted to make sure I could cross that border.  Friends and family were watching this unfold via Facebook messages. I did feel a bit like a fugitive with images of police cars with flashing lights chasing me down the highway. 

Arrived just before sunset, no police cars in sight, no cries of shock when I told the manager I was from Melbourne.  The  Classic Motor Inn was quite comfortable and welcoming with a manager who was so helpful with tips about takeaway food and where to walk Jac.  Recommend it although it was full with travellers so just a bit noisy, and apparently most of the other guests were last minute bookings mainly from Victoria.   Took Jac for a walk in the dark then went back to organise dinner. She sulks a bit when we first start travelling and won't eat the food that I so painstakingly cook for her and this time was no exception.  Then I received this text message:

I did feel like the CV Monster was following me.  Luckily on arrival in Sydney I was able to book in for a test straight away.  Still awaiting results and being sensible about what I do while I am here until I get the results although I have no reason to believe I could have contracted the virus given I've been pretty much living like a hermit.

Was a foggy foggy morning in Albury but took Jac for a good walk in the fog, something quite peaceful about walking in a misty landscape.  Rang a friend to arrange to meet her in Canberra but she was leaving for Ballarat so we met for a coffee at Jugiong which felt just a bit adventurous.  I love Jugiong, Jugiong Motor Inn is a great place to stay if you have a dog, one of those delightful old fashioned motels that still has the hole in the wall for breakfast deliveries, which, alas, they don't do anymore.  But they do have a courtyard with lights where you can sit with your evening meal and a glass of wine.  Then there is the Pantry and the St George Hotel, which also does coffee and has a delightful green courtyard.  

Didn't stay at Jugiong, instead headed for Suttons Forest where I stayed at Hillview Heritage Hotel. It was a rambly old place wth rather rustic cottages, I had one with my own spacious courtyard so Jac was very happy and she ate her food (miracle). It's government owned but leased out, apparently was the Vice Regal retreat whatever that means, and is a huge property with some amazing sculptures dotted around the place, reminded me a bit of Heide Gallery in Melbourne. Sat on one of the hills to get a glimpse of the sunset with a glass of Prosecco, as you do, while Jac sniffed furiously around because there were rabbit holes (and poo) everywhere. Luckily, given her propensity to kill them, none were around. I was careful to explain to people when I booked that I was travelling from Melbourne so they had a chance to say we don't want you with all your germs but no-one seemed to mind and apparently staying in a hotel is a low risk to both the stayer and the hotel.

 

It's been hard though watching events unfold in Melbourne.  I wait anxiously each day for the figures to be released and despair at the way in which people are so willing to pan the State Government for the actions they have taken.  It does seem something went wrong with hotel quarantine, but they had only 24 hours to organise it and contracting security firms is also a way of providing employment which is pretty important in these times.  Since being here I have realised that NSW also used security guards in the hotels, something you would not be aware of if you only saw the Victorian media or listened to the carping from the LNP opposition.   The lockdown of the towers was not handled well from a communication perspective, or from getting appropriate support in immediately, but it appears was entirely necessary to protect the residents and stop the spread of the virus.  It also appears the Govt did listen to the criticism and brought in the appropriate community agencies after the first days, but the distress for those people in the towers must have been significant, surrounded by police, not being allowed out, no access to fresh air as there are no balconies, how could they have been built that way?  The hope is that this will cause us all to look at the conditions in the high-rise towers and work to get rid of them.   Whatever way you look at it, dealing with the pandemic is a mammoth task and we must expect that the response will not always be perfect just as we must expect there will continue to be outbreaks until we have a vaccine.  However to get on my political soapbox, what Dan Andrews and his team have done is accept responsibility, institute an independent inquiry and admit they made mistakes.  

It's been good to get here and see Em and all the Newton Family including the doggos.  Em has been feeding magpies, seems like a bit of a family trait, Beci does whenever she gets the chance,  I also do at home and her father Ross, feeds King Parrots in his bush hideaway.  

It is strange to be here without Sean, his presence is everywhere, which I guess is good and bad.  Good because he is still celebrated and he lives on in some way but it's also a constant reminder of the loss and the gap he has left behind for everybody, but especially for Em.  

Elfi and Ferdi have settled down over the years, so there is not quite the constant sense of excitement there used to be when we arrived. The dogs now just circle quietly around each other and Jac is still eating,  no more hunger strikes so far this time, what a relief.  Have decided to get into the Victorian spirit and wear a mask when I go shopping after reading all the advice on it.  It does appear that it offers some protection no matter how badly you do it. It is amusing and slightly despairing to see people wearing masks under their chin or not covering their nose, seems a bit useless. 

Final note, test came back negative, less than 24 hours turnaround, so I will now allow myself to indulge in a coffee while I am out walking Jac and have planned a trip to Armidale to see a friend next week, which will also give Em a break from me so we don't end up getting aggravated with each other.  

Creating a new space

I am in the process of selling the house that I lived in with the bloke for 38 years.  I am in the very fortunate position of having another house (with a mortgage) down on the Mornington Peninsula.  During his illness I hardly got down here, although his last request for an outing was to come here and sit on the back deck in the sun looking out over the Ti Tree.  Over the last twelve months i have been unable to spend much time down here because of all the travel I was doing.

But now I can see the potential of actually living down here.  I love the beach, whatever the weather.  I love that every time I see it, it is different.  Still and calm one day, stormy and rolling waves the next.  Blue skies then stormy clouds, sun glistening on the water on a hot day or the yellow of a sunset being reflected in the water and on the sand.  We have a dog beach near here, where dogs can be walked off leash.  Some days when the tide is out it has a wide sandy beach, other times when the tide is in and it is a bit stormy there is hardly any beach to walk on.

And then there is the garden.  Wild and overgrown from over a year of neglect.  Had to have some of the ti trees cut down because they were falling slowly.  I love the way ti trees fall, they tend not to have the drama of the crashing branches of gum trees, rather they start to lean, as if the challenge of remaining upright is just too much.  They lean into each other and form a crown of supporting braces all holding each other up.

Before some of that crown was removed there was not much light in the backyard so the grass did not grow.  Now it grows wildly, as if all that was hidden beneath the ground is suddenly celebrating freedom and dancing in the newly found sunlight.  I can appreciate the beautiful green and the waving blades of the grass, but there are snakes in that yard which the long grass can hide and I do want to walk through the yard on a cold morning without getting wet from the dew that settles on the grass leaves.

The beginning of the garden taming

The plan is a slightly wild garden, a small patch of green, a fire pit, an apple tree, a lemon tree and space for vegetables in amongst native plants and the occasional import like lavender.  I leave behind in Kew years of planting, a large paperbark which I have loved and has given us much pleasure, a fig tree that has largely fed the bats in the last few years but provided us with a beautiful shaded spot in the back part of the garden, a cumquat my dad planted, an apple and a plum tree.

My transition to the sea change has been slightly effected by two things.  The first is the process of selling.  It is a painful process, getting it ready, decluttering, a job done with the help of my two daughters who were excellent in saying no, you don't need this, no that looks messy there, so we finally have an uncluttered house that has new paint and new carpet in a few rooms.  And now the challenge is keeping it clean, so that it looks sparkling for the Open for Inspections which happen twice a week.  The second issue is I am standing as a candidate for Labor again, this time in the state elections, as the candidate for Kew a fairly safe Liberal seat.  However both of those activities require that I am in Melbourne a fair amount of time.

Traditional Christmas toasting of marshmallows in the back yard

Footnote,
the above was written in late October.  3 months later I have sold the house in Kew, Labor won the election in a landslide, I got a 6% swing against my opponent Tim Smith and I am now in the process of settling in to my sea change.  We did celebrate Christmas with the family in the sea shack, I did Frocktober to raise money for Ovarian Cancer Research and did an Instagram series of democracy dogs who came to the Early Polling Centre and waited patiently while their owners participated in the democratic process.

My favourite democracy dog, Arthur, one of Jag's mates waiting patiently

One more period of a few days to get everything moved out of the other house, a drive up to Sydney (with Jac of course) and then I'm back to my little cottage in a very urban part of the Mornington Peninsula. Just a 20 minute walk from the bay beach, 5 minute drive to what I think is the best ocean beach around with natural rock pools to swim in when the tide is out, and short drive to wineries and the beautiful hinterland.

On the road again and Encounters with other animals

This year I wanted to get away from doing the usual things over Christmas.  Even though Erwin was never into Christmas, we have developed a tradition of celebrating at Rye with Beci and Raph and the boys.  It made me think that I am not alone, I do have a wonderful circle of family (particularly Bec and Em) and friends. But, Christmas and New Year is one of those times when you are surrounded by memories and everyone is talking about families, so the challenge was to do something different this year.  

So Jac and I headed off on another road trip to Em's in Sydney,  But this time, after consultation with Jac, I decided to do it so I had a little bit of time to explore in the places I stopped.  First one was Woolshed Cabins just outside of Beechworth.  About a 3 hour drive from Melbourne, so got there early afternoon, enough time to go for a swim in Lake Sambell which is in Beechworth.  The Lake has lovely sandy beaches and clear, cool water.   There were a few family groups there but otherwise very peaceful.  Jack did her usual wading in unto her tummy, then waited by the shoreline while I had a swim.  She also made a few people friends - she is good at just sitting nearby a group until they notice her and pat her.  The Cabins were perfect, in the bush, and of course we were greeted by the obligatory black labrador.  There was a beautiful rock outcrop on the hill behind the cabin, perfect setting to watch the sunset, and a track to walk around the property, so we were both happy.

Jac enjoying the sunset

In the morning we had a bit of a tour around Beechworth, driving the Gorge trail and stopping for a slightly hazardous climb down to the creek in the Gorge.  Basically climbing down one very smooth and steep rock.  Jac managed fine, I did it very gingerly. Our next stop was Albury for a quick dip in the Murray at Noreuil Park.  Perfect stopping spot, easy access to he river, The Riverpark Cafe serves great coffee, clean toilets and dogs allowed off leash.  They also having drinking bowls for dogs - although I do carry a container of water and a bowl (fancy folding one now thanks to Em) and give her a drink every time we stop.  Had to make a stop after that at Tarcutta to see the craft shop which has been there forever and sells stuff made by local crafts people, including beautiful pottery by a local potter.  We have a number of her mugs which were Erwin's favourite, so I bought a bowl there to use for Jac's food along the way.

Overnight was at Jugiong Motor Inn.  My first thought when i pulled up was 'mm maybe I'll go straight on to Sydney'.  Entrance to my room was over a concrete path from the car park, few rubbish bags lying around and laundry hanging.  However it was a bit like  Alice Through the Looking Glass. Once in the room, there was another door which opened out on to a lovely green courtyard with lots of comfy chairs and bench tables. Next to the Motor Inn was a paddock with Alpacas, sheep and an enormous pig which all made Jac a little nervous.  In the morning I opened the door to the courtyard to find the sheep wandering around.  The sheep galloped over to greet Jac who after reluctantly allowing it to sniff at her, went for safety under table.  

A meeting of two minds?

The owner of the Motor Inn directed me across the road to the river, so we could swim in the Murrumbidgee.  The entrance to the river was a little muddy but once in it was fine.  Jac paddles at the edges and waits patiently while I swim.    Went to the Sir George for dinner, had a courtyard where we could sit and Jac is very good at waiting patiently while I go in and order, although if there is anyone nearby who she thinks might pat her she will sit forlornly nearby waiting for them to, so I can come back to find her quietly accepting being fussed over.   In this case she found a family at the next table who thought she was beautiful.  One of the good things that has happened in Australia over the last couple of decades is the development of good food and coffee places, that often use the local produce.  I remember our family trips along the Hume where we mostly took our own food because the food along the way was so limited.  Those were the days when if a cafe advertised that they had cappuccino you had to ask them what coffee they used to make it because for some the definition of cappuccino was instant coffee with some frothy cream on top.  Now it's veritable gourmet treats in most places, even the big super stops on the highway have Olivers now which has quite reasonable food.

From Jugiong it was an easy drive to Sydney although we did stop for another swim in the Wingecaribee River at Berrima.  Deep water holes and rocks on the other side that people jump off, I did not.  Surprisingly the roads were not that busy, given it was Christmas Eve.  Was good to arrive at Em's and get comfortable as well as have a dip in their spa/pool.  I love the way her and Sean are able to produce a meal working together without any fuss.  The dogs were remarkably well behaved, not the level of excitement that we had the first time.  While I was there I walked the dogs all together in Centennial Park, both with Em and on my own and I think that helped them all settle down.  We had a lovely Christmas Day wiht my first experience of seeing a whole turkey cooked and it was beautiful.  Done under the direction of Em's sister in Law who was visiting from the UK.  


Went swimming in Bondi, the advantage of having Em living in Sydney is she goes to the North of the beach where the rock pools are and again we could take the dogs and the crowds are not quite so overwhelming.  Jac loves the water but not at a depth where she has to swim. So she was a bit nonplussed when she fell into one of the rock pools which was quite deep so had to swim a bit to find a place where she could get out.  Still the tail was wagging when she finally clambered out.  

Beci and the boys arrived in Sydney in time for me to spend time with the boys while Bec went out partying.  Loved their BnB with a swimming pool and just 5 minutes walk from Ems.  But because my plan is to spend New Years Eve alone (well just with Jac) I headed off to Jindabyne.  While we weren't big celebrators of New Years we did have some pretty spectacular ones and we did manage to spend 39 New Years Eves together, this one would have been the 40th.  Those closest to my heart were when we were in Falls Creek and we would go to the top of Mt Mckay and watch the spectacular sunsets over the ranges, purples and blues of the mountains that just seemed to go on forever.  We would have our dog of the day with us.  So to know how Jac and I coped with New Years Eve you'll have to read the next blog......

Why travel with a dog.

Jac is black, small and hairy. She is fairly shaggy, a bit like me.  Jack has been ‘our’ companion.  We’ve had previous dogs but they have always aligned themselves to one of us.  Jackie our first, a kelpie cross was mine, she would follow me around, though it was a bit diluted because we had her while the girls were small so when we all went on walks together she would spend her time rounding us all up, circling around.  Jess was Erwin’s.  She was a long haired shepherd, if Erwin was not home she would mostly sit forlornly by the door, unless food was involved or there was the promise of a walk then she would come to life.

Jac was ours.  Although I was the one who found her and brought her home, she spread herself evenly between the two of us.  When we started sleeping in different beds because of the noise Erwin made, she would spend the night travelling between our rooms.  When Erwin got so unwell that he didn’t move much she would mostly stay on or next to his bed, but still come to me for a few hours each night.  Though she did put all her toys on his bed the first night he was in hospital.

And now there’s just the two of us.  Me and Jac.  She’s the only one now who gets excited when I come home.  She’s the one who I shared a toast with when marriage equality became a reality. She's the one who I told that while I loved most of the 40 years Erwin and I spent together, how much our politics and views on life aligned, how much we shared our fortunes and tragedies,  I was still totally pissed off about some stuff he did which continues to cause some distress.  She listens patiently, she looks understanding and she is patient with my yelling at the radio or television.  And now she travels with me.

Earlier this year we did a road trip to Sydney.  I didn’t want to leave her with anyone else and didn’t want to put her in a cage to go on the plane.  

 I am happy travelling alone but I find travelling with Jac has a number of benefits.  

The first is there is always someone to talk to.  I find Jac a good listener, who does not argue when I express strong political opinions and generally shares my views on the amenity of places we visit.  The second is she's an icebreaker.  Sometimes with solo travelling it's good to have a conversation with another human.  It does not have to be a deep and meaningful conversation, just enough so that you know that you exist in the eyes of other people.  Dogs and children are very good for that purpose.  Conversations can start about the breed the age, the nature of the dog.  Finally she gives me a sense of security.  I am not a nervous person but having Jac with me at night in a strange place, sleeping under or on my bed makes me feel more comfortable.  She is not a guard dog by any means but she can growl with the best of them and hearing her 'what do you think you are doing' bark could make someone feel a little apprehensive about entering a room.  

The first trip was to Sydney to visit my daughter Em who had organised tickets to Paul Kelly on the Opera House forecourt, and for Jac to meet Em's dogs for the first time.  Going up we stayed in an Air BnB at Albury - I won't tell you the name but it was not good.  I had not checked if the bathroom was shared.  The owner had two very yappy dogs who intimidated Jac to the point where she would not go into a room if they were there.  While the rooms we had were comfortable and opened onto a small enclosed courtyard, access to the bathroom, the fridge, the kettle and anything other than a bed and tele were though the owner's living quarters.  I learnt from that experience to check if the bathroom was shared.  Sydney was staying with Em, and two very excited daschunds who could not decide if they wanted Jac in their space.  Jack is a fairly quiet dog, used to her own space and used to peace and quiet mostly, she had just been traumatised by the two happy dogs in Albury.  She was not happy at first, and really just wanted to get away from these overbearing and noisy little things.  However, after a day and a walk together they settled.   

The road trip to Sydney was okay, I tried to stop every hour or so to give us both a walk and a stretch.  Two of the best places we found to stop were Bookham where there was an old churchyard we could walk through and reasonable coffee at the cafe.  The other was at Mittagong, where we found a lake to walk around with lots of native forest to explore.  That was a lovely spot and we spent an hour wandering around there with Jac having her customary dip in the lake, although she only goes in to a point where she can stand, won't go to a depth where she has to swim despite my constant encouragement.  

Coming back I stayed first at a place just a short way past Yass, which was convenient as I was planning to do a days work in Canberra.  I have included the link below.

Amazing Views Pet Friendly Bed and Breakfast
http://www.stayz.com.au/151034

It was a bit of a trek down a dirt road but worth it in the end.  A little cottage, which had it's own fenced courtyard with a swimming pool and view of the rolling hills and Burrinjuck Dam which took my breath away.  And made me a bit maudlin because Erwin always loved a place with a view and I could imagine how much he would have loved this one.  No cafes or shops nearby,  which meant I made a return trip to Yass to stock up, having a chat with a few people about dogs and weather while I was there.  Then back for a dip in the pool, although by then a breeze had come up and it was not all that warm, still if you have a pool at your feet it beckons you to jump in.  Jac met the friendly black labrador (I am learning that black labs are a bit of a feature of farm stays) and was intrigued by the sheep she could see as we sat on the deck.

View from the deck

Jack watching the sheep while the wind blows away her ears

The second was just past Gundagai after the days work in Canberra.  Another Air BnB - using the pet friendly filter when searching.  Yarratah Bed and Breakfast at Mundarlo, another little trek off the highway but again well worth it.  This time it was a cottage adjoining one of the farm sheds, very basic but comfortable and with everything we needed.  On arrival Jac met the obligatory black labrador and the host gave us directions to walk through the paddocks to the river.  Jack was not excited about all the burrs she picked up as we walked through the paddocks but was excited when we found the swimming hole at the river where she waded in while I went in for a swim.  

There is something about freshwater swimming that I love, the feel of the current, the softness of the water, the sense of throwing caution away and abandoning yourself to the forces of nature.  Went to sleep listening to the sheep and the birds and woke up to a rooster proclaiming the arrival of the daylight.  Had learnt from the previous experience to bring my own food so was well prepared to make a salad and cook up a bit of chicken for Jac who is the fussiest eater under the planet.   

Jac paddling in the Murrumbidgee

Dusk settles at the farm

Drove home from there with a few stops on the way including a side trip to Glenrowan which I had not visited for years and was curious to see what they had done in relation to Ned Kelly. It had quite a despondent air and I didn't stop for long, nowhere really to walk Jac except along the street.  I find the roadside stops not very useful for the dog as they are generally pretty small and not a lot of space for her to walk so detouring off to the towns is the best bet and doesn't take much extra time, however Glenrowan was not exciting.

It's made me realise another benefit of travelling with a dog, that finding pet friendly accommodation means moving away from the motels on the highway and takes one off on little adventures to places where you might not otherwise go.  Because they are mostly out of the towns you get the beauty of the skies at night with the stars reminding me of how small we are and how big and beautiful this place is.  I have had conversations that I would not otherwise have had and stopping to walk the dog in between has also helped me discover new places.