Travelling with Jac and Annie

“Lots of people want to ride with you in the limo—what you want is someone who will take the bus with you when the limo breaks down.”  Oprah Winfrey

Oh dear what is happening when I start a blog with a quote from Oprah Winfrey?.  But this one seemed appropriate for this blog.  On my return from Canberra Jac and I were joined by a friend while going home from Canberra.  Annie and I have been friends since we worked together in a women's refuge back in the 80s.   Inspired by my road trips, Annie flew up so we could have a road trip home.  We've been friends for years but rarely holiday together.  We are very different, which is a good thing, we often argue but are united by feminism, by a  shared history starting with working together in a women's refuge, a love of grandchildren and a love of good food and wine, though Prosecco is our favourite tipple at the moment.  I've also done the same thing and flown over to Perth once so I could drive home across the Nullabor with her and Norm, we both share a love of road trips.  And she is a person who would take the bus with me when the limo breaks down - we handle adversity well and have fun with it.

After picking her up from the airport and a stop for fish and chips so I could show off my local Canberra knowledge by showing her Snapper on the shores of Lake Burley Griffin, we headed off to a farmstead at Coolac, just north of Cootamundra on the Olympic Way.  Beautiful spot, Wallendbeen Park Farm.  It's an organic farm with golden pigs, chooks bokboking around and the funniest little creatures - Guinea Fowl.  They like to stay together. They wander around as a group and every now and then one gets too caught up in scratching around, then they all call and the one left behind sticks its head up and comes running to join the fold.

Sat out on the decking in the dusk, ate our gourmet snacks, drank Prosecco and just enjoyed the peace and quiet, disturbed only by the occasional bok bok and the pigs grunting. 

I had booked for the Dartmouth Motor Inn, we travelled on the Olympic Way, going though Wagga Wagga and a swim in the Murrumbidgee at the Wagga Beach, again sand and deep water, although everyone said the river was low.  Caught up with a friend of my brothers, Beryl who has lived in that area for years who talked about how welcoming the community was of both refugees and international students.  When you travel through just a little part of the country you appreciate how much space there is and how much refugee communities could bring to small country towns if they were supported to go there. 

To continue the swimming theme had to stop at Albury to have a swim in the Murray, just at the spot where Annie and Norm had lived in a tent in their early years together.

Have to say that while the area around Dartmouth is absolutely beautiful, a dam that has more water than Lake Hume, forests and a beautiful river, the Motor Inn had seen better days and the food at the hotel was pretty tired and sad.  But did have a nice beer sitting out on the verandah at the motel and finished the night off with a Prosecco.  Next morning after Annie tried to set the place alight with the toaster which caught fire, we decided that the accommodation was not for us so thought we would just head home.  

However as John Steinbeck said

A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find that after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us. 

On the way down the mountain we stopped at the Witches Garden (how could one not stop at a place with a name like that), which has accommodation and acres of green and lush gardens.  They told us it was market day in Mitta Mitta so of course we had to go there and found a little green piece of paradise.  The market was out the front of the pub which backed on to the Snowy Creek.  The pub was an old one that has been so well done up with huge old logs, soaring roof and a comfortable and rustic feel to it, with green lawns going down to the creek.  Found out later that my Mum had lost her bottom dentures in that river behind the pub about 60 years before, would have dived in and searched for them if I had known.  They dam the river up in summer to make a deep swimming hole behind the pub.  We stopped for a Beechworth Ale and fantasised about staying for a night but thought we'd have no chance of finding dog friendly accommodation last minute during Easter. I googled accommodation and found Wonjeena.  3 ks out of town on Scrubby Creek Road, a piece of 1960s history, with a resident historian who is the 3rd generation to live on the land there and full of stories about the place.  And they had a spot.  They had closed for bookings over Easter because Nevis, the historian was doing his bees, but he had finished the the day before so they had a self contained unit available.  Two delightfully friendly dogs for Jac to be disdainful of and a huge bull in the next door paddock, which luckily Jac decided to stay away from.  Decor straight from the 50s.

Time for a dip in the freezing cold waters of the Mitta River.  After a while the body acclimatised and  we could lie on the rocks with the water burbling around us - so relaxing.  Mind you we must have looked a sight, two old bags and a dog, both with shaky balance picking our way through the current and over the rocks, but it was worth it.  There were lots of fishing spots and peaceful and private little hidden holes in the bush to camp by the river with fireplaces set up.  If only I could still get up and down with ease I would seriously consider a tent.

After a good meal at the pub, with a very nice wine - unfortunately can't remember the name except it had Duck in it somewhere (and no, it was not Blue Duck for those that remember the 60s), we went back to our little bit of 50s paradise, sat under the stars again with a Prosecco before bed.  

We had a meandering trip home, stopping for Jac to have a walk in Benalla and a return visit to Morrisons winery near Glenrowan.  Their Tempranillo is perfect and unlike many wineries they charge reasonable prices.  As the winemaker explained he does not like to pay more than $20.00 for a good bottle so why should he expect anyone else to.

View from our lodging  at Mitta Mitta

I love the meandering, it's a different kind of travel than just going from one place to another purposefully. Taking the time to head off if something looks interesting or exploring a place that you've just driven past before, somehow opens the soul a bit to new experiences. While doing it on my own is fun,  it was also good for to travel with a friend, we always tend to have fun and lots of laughs (often at our own expense).  Our eating and drinking habits are very similar so that all works out quite well.  The experience is different because you share it and can enjoy the moments together.

Staying put with Jac

As noted in the last blog, Jac and me are in Canberra for an extended stay.  It's work related but we have an air b n b that is more or less dog friendly.  If the dog was a wanderer it would not work, but for me and Jack it's fine.

Jac doesn't wander, she likes to stay close to me and the car, so I don't need an enclosed yard.  I can just open the door here and she wanders over to the garden, has a pee or whatever and wanders back in.  Generally she finds a cosy spot under my feet or on the bed.  She likes to indulge herself.  Although, unlike me, food does not have to part of her indulgence.  She is the fussiest eater in the world.  So I cook chicken for her, sometimes with a bit of pasta, sometimes a bit of carrot or kale.  Although if I don't cut the carrot up into teeny tiny pieces she will take it out and leave it by her dish.  I like to think of her as a bit of a gourmet traveller.  But sometimes despite my dedicated cooking she still turns her nose up, walks away leaving the lumps of chicken lying forlornly in their dish.

Canberra is a much maligned place, and yes, in the past I have been a part of the maligner bunch.  But spending time here does mean it grows on you.  The place we are staying in is nothing short of weird.  the home of embassies, so huge houses with long long driveways, guard boxes, flags everywhere and Federal police permanently stationed at each end of the street.  Could be because we are across the road from the Iraq embassy, the Arab Emirates, Turkish and the Kuwait Embassy.  Sensitive I imagine.  Disconcerting though.  

Lots of walking, managed 5 kilometres the other day in between work and eating.  I got myself one of those doovylackers that counts steps and kilometres.  It's been interesting to see that I get caught up in wanting to achieve the target I have set, so it does encourage me to walk more.


Jac behaves very differently walking through the bush, constantly on alert, looking around her, testing every bush and stopping at every strange noise.  Going into her pointer pose when she spies kangaroos off in the distance.  There is a nature reserve across the road where we walk most days.  And it is the home of kangaroos, counted 24 once on one of our morning walks.  They are funny creatures, stopping to watch with their ears cocked when we walk past, hopping slowly away if we get too close.  Also the home of snakes - two people have told me about their dogs discovering snakes in their backyard recently, one where her two dogs played tug of war with the snake and tore it in half, then the head half reared up ready to attack.  freaky freaky..... So I worry about her going off too much into the bush and I am hyper vigilant about snakes with her around but, touch wood, no threat of them yet.


Speaking of eating - weren't you?  Snapper in Yarralumla, fish and chips and wine or beer by the shores of the lake.  Not just dog friendly but dog welcoming.  As are most places here, very dog friendly city, all the ovals are off leash areas and very few signs around saying no dogs.  

What adds to the enjoyment of Canberra is having friends here, Ol who used to work with and her delightful family, who are always so welcoming and who look after Jac on the days when I can't take her to work with me.  Although when I drop her off it feels a bit like taking a child to childcare, I get a bit peeved when she wanders in happily and doesn't sulk when I leave.  We went together to a perfect river swimming spot less than 30 minutes away Uriana - sandy beaches, trees, green grass, shallow water and then deep swimming hole.  Heaven.  Dogs everywhere, noses up bums, Jack gets a bit touchy if that goes on too long and will give a 'excuse me did I give you permission to stick your nose there' snap if they spend too long on the sniff.  Pete drove us up to the Mt Stromlo Observatory, great views and would love to do one of the night star spotting tours, next time ...

I was lucky enough to be here for the Hot air Ballon festival and doubly lucky that the morning I decided to get up at dawn so I could watch them launch was a good weather day.  They are tetchy things these hot air balloons and won't take off if it's too windy, raining or the sky doesn't look right.  But I picked the right day.  There were around 30 balloons and it was quite magical, blowing them up with the hot air and watching them silently taking off with just that occasional whoosh whoosh as the flame goes up.

My favourite balloon

And the 'tree library' as Ol's daughter described the Arboretum.  Whenever I see old trees, particularly slow growing ones I think what foresight the people had who planted them, often knowing they would never live to enjoy the full splendour, to rest in the shade of branches that spread out or marvel at the height and width.  The Arboretum was established after the last Canberra fires and aims to have trees from all over the world.  It was windy and blustery the day we went up there but we sheltered in a grove of old cedars. I think it's the Swedish who talk about the health benefits of forest bathing and it is so true.  Time spent wandering through tall trees or even the rugged bush that you find in a lot of the nature reserves here is good for the soul.

The other good part about Canberra, for me anyway,  is Parliament.  As a good Labor supporter and, of course, a feminist, I was delighted when my time here coincided with an Emily's List function with Tanya Plibersek.  So Ol and I went along, I had to join a huge long queue to get through security, then we had to wait to be picked up to be taken to the Labor Senate Caucus room.  Seemed appropriate it was the same day that Christine Keneally made her first speech.  Ged Kearney put in an appearance and I felt incredibly proud to be part of a party that has now almost 50% representation of women in the lower house and 67% in the Senate.  And what good women - Ann Ali, Tanya of course, now Ged, Penny Wong, Linda Burney, the list goes on and on. 

Joined in the refugee rally as well.  Was quite impressed with how it was organised, with the different groups gathering together, then marching individually to the square and being announced and applauded as they arrived.  Not like the rabble in Melbourne.  No Grandmothers Against the Detention of Refugee Children so we joined the Labor Left but then saw my favourite banner - The Vintage Reds which would have been much more fitting.

Em and Sean were in Canberra as well fleetingly so had a catch up with them and Joe which was good.  So it was a pleasant way to spend a few weeks and I can understand the appeal of Canberra.  But a long way from home and the grandkids.  

On the road again and Encounters with other animals

This year I wanted to get away from doing the usual things over Christmas.  Even though Erwin was never into Christmas, we have developed a tradition of celebrating at Rye with Beci and Raph and the boys.  It made me think that I am not alone, I do have a wonderful circle of family (particularly Bec and Em) and friends. But, Christmas and New Year is one of those times when you are surrounded by memories and everyone is talking about families, so the challenge was to do something different this year.  

So Jac and I headed off on another road trip to Em's in Sydney,  But this time, after consultation with Jac, I decided to do it so I had a little bit of time to explore in the places I stopped.  First one was Woolshed Cabins just outside of Beechworth.  About a 3 hour drive from Melbourne, so got there early afternoon, enough time to go for a swim in Lake Sambell which is in Beechworth.  The Lake has lovely sandy beaches and clear, cool water.   There were a few family groups there but otherwise very peaceful.  Jack did her usual wading in unto her tummy, then waited by the shoreline while I had a swim.  She also made a few people friends - she is good at just sitting nearby a group until they notice her and pat her.  The Cabins were perfect, in the bush, and of course we were greeted by the obligatory black labrador.  There was a beautiful rock outcrop on the hill behind the cabin, perfect setting to watch the sunset, and a track to walk around the property, so we were both happy.

Jac enjoying the sunset

In the morning we had a bit of a tour around Beechworth, driving the Gorge trail and stopping for a slightly hazardous climb down to the creek in the Gorge.  Basically climbing down one very smooth and steep rock.  Jac managed fine, I did it very gingerly. Our next stop was Albury for a quick dip in the Murray at Noreuil Park.  Perfect stopping spot, easy access to he river, The Riverpark Cafe serves great coffee, clean toilets and dogs allowed off leash.  They also having drinking bowls for dogs - although I do carry a container of water and a bowl (fancy folding one now thanks to Em) and give her a drink every time we stop.  Had to make a stop after that at Tarcutta to see the craft shop which has been there forever and sells stuff made by local crafts people, including beautiful pottery by a local potter.  We have a number of her mugs which were Erwin's favourite, so I bought a bowl there to use for Jac's food along the way.

Overnight was at Jugiong Motor Inn.  My first thought when i pulled up was 'mm maybe I'll go straight on to Sydney'.  Entrance to my room was over a concrete path from the car park, few rubbish bags lying around and laundry hanging.  However it was a bit like  Alice Through the Looking Glass. Once in the room, there was another door which opened out on to a lovely green courtyard with lots of comfy chairs and bench tables. Next to the Motor Inn was a paddock with Alpacas, sheep and an enormous pig which all made Jac a little nervous.  In the morning I opened the door to the courtyard to find the sheep wandering around.  The sheep galloped over to greet Jac who after reluctantly allowing it to sniff at her, went for safety under table.  

A meeting of two minds?

The owner of the Motor Inn directed me across the road to the river, so we could swim in the Murrumbidgee.  The entrance to the river was a little muddy but once in it was fine.  Jac paddles at the edges and waits patiently while I swim.    Went to the Sir George for dinner, had a courtyard where we could sit and Jac is very good at waiting patiently while I go in and order, although if there is anyone nearby who she thinks might pat her she will sit forlornly nearby waiting for them to, so I can come back to find her quietly accepting being fussed over.   In this case she found a family at the next table who thought she was beautiful.  One of the good things that has happened in Australia over the last couple of decades is the development of good food and coffee places, that often use the local produce.  I remember our family trips along the Hume where we mostly took our own food because the food along the way was so limited.  Those were the days when if a cafe advertised that they had cappuccino you had to ask them what coffee they used to make it because for some the definition of cappuccino was instant coffee with some frothy cream on top.  Now it's veritable gourmet treats in most places, even the big super stops on the highway have Olivers now which has quite reasonable food.

From Jugiong it was an easy drive to Sydney although we did stop for another swim in the Wingecaribee River at Berrima.  Deep water holes and rocks on the other side that people jump off, I did not.  Surprisingly the roads were not that busy, given it was Christmas Eve.  Was good to arrive at Em's and get comfortable as well as have a dip in their spa/pool.  I love the way her and Sean are able to produce a meal working together without any fuss.  The dogs were remarkably well behaved, not the level of excitement that we had the first time.  While I was there I walked the dogs all together in Centennial Park, both with Em and on my own and I think that helped them all settle down.  We had a lovely Christmas Day wiht my first experience of seeing a whole turkey cooked and it was beautiful.  Done under the direction of Em's sister in Law who was visiting from the UK.  


Went swimming in Bondi, the advantage of having Em living in Sydney is she goes to the North of the beach where the rock pools are and again we could take the dogs and the crowds are not quite so overwhelming.  Jac loves the water but not at a depth where she has to swim. So she was a bit nonplussed when she fell into one of the rock pools which was quite deep so had to swim a bit to find a place where she could get out.  Still the tail was wagging when she finally clambered out.  

Beci and the boys arrived in Sydney in time for me to spend time with the boys while Bec went out partying.  Loved their BnB with a swimming pool and just 5 minutes walk from Ems.  But because my plan is to spend New Years Eve alone (well just with Jac) I headed off to Jindabyne.  While we weren't big celebrators of New Years we did have some pretty spectacular ones and we did manage to spend 39 New Years Eves together, this one would have been the 40th.  Those closest to my heart were when we were in Falls Creek and we would go to the top of Mt Mckay and watch the spectacular sunsets over the ranges, purples and blues of the mountains that just seemed to go on forever.  We would have our dog of the day with us.  So to know how Jac and I coped with New Years Eve you'll have to read the next blog......