Moving around NSW

Yep I'm still in NSW.  Don't really see the purpose of racing home to lockdown.  It's been hard listening to the growing numbers and feeling a bit guilty about not being there.  Have to say I have loved being at Em's.  Getting to cook for her and Joe has been fun and have been trawling through the old Women's Weekly Cookbook for inspiration.  It's interesting to recognise how limited the ingredients are that were used 40 years ago.  Also get to feed the maggies when they come begging and Em is at work. Em and I both enjoy our own space so Jac and I headed off to visit a friend in Armidale to give each other a break.

Morpeth street and sunset from main street

Headed off down the Pacific Motorway having booked a cottage in Morpeth for a night to stop along the way to Armidale.  Interesting little town, sort of like a mini Daylesford, good wine store, not surprising given we are in the Hunter Valley, it's about 2 1/2 hours out of Sydney.  Trying a new wine tonight to go with my Indian curry from the place next door to where I stayed, The Loft in the Surgeon's Cottage.  Shiraz Tempranillo, my two favourite wines together - Phoenix from Pokolbin Estate eminently drinkable, smooth dry and full bodied.  The cottage is very comfortable, in an old stone building, set in a rustic and green courtyard, and love that they have a teapot and looseleaf tea.  Morpeth also has a great pub, the Commericial with a microbrewery so I tried one of their beers sitting at a table on the street.  Was very aware of people not wearing masks and not appearing to socially distance, particularly in the pub where people, mainly men, were congregating in large groups.  Jac made herself very comfortable in the cottage.

From Morpeth I drove to Armidale on the rather intriguingly named Thunderbolts Way.  The road was named after a bushranger, a man who was known for stealing horses but 'only the best'.  That man, Frederic Ward, has that road named after him, Thunderbolt's Rock where he is reputed to have had a hiding place, a statue in Uralla, and his grave is marked with a biscuit tin where visitors leave etters for him.  His bush ranging career lasted 6 years.  6 years and he has all of that, whereas the Aboriginal people who lived on that land for tens of thousands of years, who were massacred and driven off their lands are hardly acknowledged.  There is a tourist map of Thunderbolt's Way which has all the information above, yet I found it hard to pick up anything which had the history of the traditional owners.  By looking at local Government websites I discovered the names of the traditional owners in the stretch between Walcha and Gloucester. I think they were Dangaddi, Worimi and Biripi.  I apologise if I have got any of that wrong or left out any, but it is hard to find that information.  But a bushranger, a criminal who was connected to that area for 6 years and has his story told and celebrated.

The drive itself was good, a large part of the road follows the Nowendoc river. Stopped for a break at Bretti Reserve, a peaceful little free camping area along the river, had a chat to the only couple camping there who told me about Pilligap and the area where there are several artesian springs.  Plan now to come back and do a round trip of all the artesian springs, sounds like heaven.  My friend was just a kilometre from the main centre of Armidale, a town developed by the squatocracy which apparently still has vestiges of the power of those original squatters.  Explored her property, picked veggies from the garden for dinner, had a fire outside then another inside, drank some good Hunter Valley wine and had a relaxing night.  Next morning we went to one of the many spectacular gorges around Armidale to look at the Wollombimbi Falls.  Poor Jac had to stay in the car as it was a National Park.  The area was devastated by bushfires earlier in the year but they have rebuilt a most magnificent viewing platform and refreshed the paths and amenities.   

Decided to head back along Thunderbolt's Way, stopping at another river side camping area and stayed in Morpeth again overnight.  Didn't want to just stay on the Motorway to get back so thought I'd try the Pacific Highway - don't, it was stop and start all the way and many built up areas, though I did take a few side trips.  One to Caves Beach a long stretch of beach which apparently has caves at one end but not at the dog friendly end.  Wild surf and sand had streaks of black, lots of erosion of the sand dunes.  

We had a long walk then back to the Highway with another stop at Chittaway Bay.  The bay is on Lake Macquarie, apparently one of the largest saltwater lakes in Australia.  It felt fairly rundown but got a piece of battered fish to eat and sat on a wharf on the Lake.  And along came a pelican, swimming up close and looked like she was hanging around for a feed. Took some of the batter off the fish and threw it to her, she caught it in her beak, clacked clacked with her beak to get it down and then patiently waited for more.  Jac was completely oblivious, although the pelican would move a bit away when she started walking around.  As Em said, I fed a pelican junk food.  Then got back in the motorway and headed home to Sydney, braving the Sydney traffic.   Some of Sean's extended family were there for dinner and cards and  helped try the sparkling fortified wine which was also from the Hunter Valley and was delicious. 

Footnote: 

Overheard conversation at one of the art gallery/come cafe I went to.  'Victoria is in a bit of a mess' 'Yes its because of the hotel guards who fraternised with the returning travellers' 'mm I think he Premier is Dan Andrews - is he Labor or Liberal?'  'Labor I think' 'Oh well that explains it' ....  Despite that have not had one person recoiling from me in horror when I have told them I am from Melbourne or the Mornington Peninsula.   

On the road again, escape from Victoria

 I've been planning to visit Em, my daughter in Sydney once restrictions eased.  We'd planned it for a time when she was not too busy with work.  We'd planned an overnight stay on the Hawkesbury and I was quite excited about it.  And then, Monday morning Dan Andrews gives a press conference, the borders with NSW will be closed from Midnight on Tuesday.  And all of Greater Melbourne is declared a hotspot.  Despite the Mornington Peninsula being over 100 kilometres from Melbourne, despite having no new cases there for weeks, suddenly I was in a hotspot.  

Don't get me wrong, I fully support what the Victorian Government is doing.  The numbers are so high, it is important to get on top of that and strong restrictions are needed to do it.  I consulted with the family and got messages like just get in the car and go.

I have been isolating anyway pretty much, not going out, had a couple of solo visitors to my place, but with physical distancing.  Biggest event for me was a visit from Beci and Raph and a walk along the beach with them. I tried to get a Covid test at our local respiratory clinic but was told because I had no symptoms, the answer was no.  So I chucked what I needed in the car,  booked a dog friendly motel in Albury and hit the road.  Unusually for me I did not stop, one short roadside stop for Jack to have a pee and short walk and that was it.  I wanted to make sure I could cross that border.  Friends and family were watching this unfold via Facebook messages. I did feel a bit like a fugitive with images of police cars with flashing lights chasing me down the highway. 

Arrived just before sunset, no police cars in sight, no cries of shock when I told the manager I was from Melbourne.  The  Classic Motor Inn was quite comfortable and welcoming with a manager who was so helpful with tips about takeaway food and where to walk Jac.  Recommend it although it was full with travellers so just a bit noisy, and apparently most of the other guests were last minute bookings mainly from Victoria.   Took Jac for a walk in the dark then went back to organise dinner. She sulks a bit when we first start travelling and won't eat the food that I so painstakingly cook for her and this time was no exception.  Then I received this text message:

I did feel like the CV Monster was following me.  Luckily on arrival in Sydney I was able to book in for a test straight away.  Still awaiting results and being sensible about what I do while I am here until I get the results although I have no reason to believe I could have contracted the virus given I've been pretty much living like a hermit.

Was a foggy foggy morning in Albury but took Jac for a good walk in the fog, something quite peaceful about walking in a misty landscape.  Rang a friend to arrange to meet her in Canberra but she was leaving for Ballarat so we met for a coffee at Jugiong which felt just a bit adventurous.  I love Jugiong, Jugiong Motor Inn is a great place to stay if you have a dog, one of those delightful old fashioned motels that still has the hole in the wall for breakfast deliveries, which, alas, they don't do anymore.  But they do have a courtyard with lights where you can sit with your evening meal and a glass of wine.  Then there is the Pantry and the St George Hotel, which also does coffee and has a delightful green courtyard.  

Didn't stay at Jugiong, instead headed for Suttons Forest where I stayed at Hillview Heritage Hotel. It was a rambly old place wth rather rustic cottages, I had one with my own spacious courtyard so Jac was very happy and she ate her food (miracle). It's government owned but leased out, apparently was the Vice Regal retreat whatever that means, and is a huge property with some amazing sculptures dotted around the place, reminded me a bit of Heide Gallery in Melbourne. Sat on one of the hills to get a glimpse of the sunset with a glass of Prosecco, as you do, while Jac sniffed furiously around because there were rabbit holes (and poo) everywhere. Luckily, given her propensity to kill them, none were around. I was careful to explain to people when I booked that I was travelling from Melbourne so they had a chance to say we don't want you with all your germs but no-one seemed to mind and apparently staying in a hotel is a low risk to both the stayer and the hotel.

 

It's been hard though watching events unfold in Melbourne.  I wait anxiously each day for the figures to be released and despair at the way in which people are so willing to pan the State Government for the actions they have taken.  It does seem something went wrong with hotel quarantine, but they had only 24 hours to organise it and contracting security firms is also a way of providing employment which is pretty important in these times.  Since being here I have realised that NSW also used security guards in the hotels, something you would not be aware of if you only saw the Victorian media or listened to the carping from the LNP opposition.   The lockdown of the towers was not handled well from a communication perspective, or from getting appropriate support in immediately, but it appears was entirely necessary to protect the residents and stop the spread of the virus.  It also appears the Govt did listen to the criticism and brought in the appropriate community agencies after the first days, but the distress for those people in the towers must have been significant, surrounded by police, not being allowed out, no access to fresh air as there are no balconies, how could they have been built that way?  The hope is that this will cause us all to look at the conditions in the high-rise towers and work to get rid of them.   Whatever way you look at it, dealing with the pandemic is a mammoth task and we must expect that the response will not always be perfect just as we must expect there will continue to be outbreaks until we have a vaccine.  However to get on my political soapbox, what Dan Andrews and his team have done is accept responsibility, institute an independent inquiry and admit they made mistakes.  

It's been good to get here and see Em and all the Newton Family including the doggos.  Em has been feeding magpies, seems like a bit of a family trait, Beci does whenever she gets the chance,  I also do at home and her father Ross, feeds King Parrots in his bush hideaway.  

It is strange to be here without Sean, his presence is everywhere, which I guess is good and bad.  Good because he is still celebrated and he lives on in some way but it's also a constant reminder of the loss and the gap he has left behind for everybody, but especially for Em.  

Elfi and Ferdi have settled down over the years, so there is not quite the constant sense of excitement there used to be when we arrived. The dogs now just circle quietly around each other and Jac is still eating,  no more hunger strikes so far this time, what a relief.  Have decided to get into the Victorian spirit and wear a mask when I go shopping after reading all the advice on it.  It does appear that it offers some protection no matter how badly you do it. It is amusing and slightly despairing to see people wearing masks under their chin or not covering their nose, seems a bit useless. 

Final note, test came back negative, less than 24 hours turnaround, so I will now allow myself to indulge in a coffee while I am out walking Jac and have planned a trip to Armidale to see a friend next week, which will also give Em a break from me so we don't end up getting aggravated with each other.  

Saying goodbye to the old and trying out the new

This trip is about doing things a little differently.  One of my cousins said doing things differently to how they have done before, is a sign of respect to those we have lost.  So I have respected the bloke by sharing Christmas with Em in Sydney instead of under the ti trees at Rye. One of our New Year traditions for many years was to watch the sunset at Mt Mckay in Falls Creek.  The different shades of blue and grey over the never-ending mountain ranges was magical and was a perfect way to see out the year.  I didn't go back to Falls Creek.  However I felt an urge to revisit the sunset over the mountains, so went to Jindabyne in the Snowy Mountains area.  Different, we had passed through years ago but never stopped there.  So a sense of looking back to a time we shared and a tradition we both loved but in a place newly discovered.

Two stand outs from the Sydney to Jindabyne trip was the Elling Forest winery and Grandmas Cafe.  The winery is a perfect dog stop, abut an hour out of Sydney, has a little pond with large ducks, lots of space to wander around, a cafe and wine tasting - what else could a woman and her dog ask for?  The bloke offering the tasting had a rescue dog himself and we had a good chat about dogs and breeds as well as tasting some good whites - that were bio dynamic which must be good for you.  Grandma's cafe on the road into Canberra was notable for very different reasons.  Looked lovely, good outside area looking over the Olive Groves, but as we were walking up to the tables a gun went off, which completely freaked Jac out - she gets skittish when men are playing soccer in the park with the whistles and yelling.  She settled down enough for me to go in and order but then the gun went off again and again she freaked out - the waitress explained it was an air gun and was set to go off intermittently.  I drank the coffee quickly and i have never seen Jac so keen to get into the car.  The gun went off again as we were leaving and she jumped over into he front seat and then got down into the gap between the front seat and the engine.  Took her a while to stop trembling and move back to her seat in the back.

The Air BnB in East Jindabyne was advertised as  Motel Style Accommodation.  Another case of not making judgements too soon, walked into the room and was struck by it's 'compactness' just enough room for a bed, a chair and a small fridge, with a very compact bathroom, cosy definitely.  But large windows and another door opening out on to a balcony where I could take a deep breath and look out over Lake Jindabyne. 

Yep, that's the view from the balcony

Then a common area with a touch I loved - a stove top espresso maker, none of those incredibly environmentally unfriendly capsules.  Would be very cosy in winter if going up for the snow.  Explored East Jindabyne following a sign saying public lake access, leading to a drivable track which followed the lake around to a sandy beach, with people and dogs. Jac had her up to the tummy paddle and waited patiently at the shoreline while I swam out.  

Next day was New Years Eve. Went to the Tourist Information place to ask about off leash bush type walks.  The very helpful (not) person, first told me about an on leash area, but when I said I wanted off leash, told me about two walks; one from Claypits and one from Cobbin Cres but said firstly that there'd be lots of boats and people at Claypits, then  wouldn't recommend the Cobbin Cres walk to the damn wall because of the number of cyclists, and watch out for snakes.  First went to Claypits, walked about 2 ks, although you can drive a bit further and come out at the sailing club where I finished up.  It was quiet and peaceful. Jac paddled, I swam in beautiful clear water accessed from another sandy beach area, then sat on the rocks in the sun.  The peace was broken when a couple of cars pulled up and out came: two dogs, a never ending supply of rubber sailing things, a marquee, a dozen folding chairs, several ESKYs and a mob of people.  I left when they turned on the motor to blow up all the rubber things and walked back to Claypits.  

One of the challenges with shopping when you travel wiht a dog is what to do with the dog.  I get a little nervous tying her up outside a supermarket because as you might have picked up she reacts badly to different noises.  It was early enough before the heat kicked in, so I parked in the shade put the windows half down and tackled the supermarket.  She didn't seem too worried and I had the security of knowing she could not get out of the car.   Tried the Cobbin Cres walk, follows the lake edge through variety of vegetation, open areas and bush.  Yes there were cyclists, over the 3 ks we came across at least 4.  However, unlike in the city where there is not a lot of tolerance on shared paths, here there was quite an acceptance that it was a shared path and no one complained, they thanked me if I heard them and got Jac off the path and one who had to dodge around her actually said - 'well the dog's got as much right to be here as I have'.  It had warmed up by then, Jac doesn't like the heat and kept making for shady spots where she would wait for me to catch up.  The walk is a return along the same track and ending up back at the beach area and this time Jac actually swam so she must have felt a bit hot.  The good thing about that was that it actually cleaned her, unlike being in the beach, so did throw her in for another paddle to help with that process and then we sat on the rocks in the sun again for a while.  

New Years Eve, a salad on the balcony, a few chats with the other stayers at the Motel Style Accommodation, including lovely young woman who spent her New Years Eve doing the 18k walk up Mt Kozsiusko.  And I felt good about walking 6ks on a mostly flat track!   Anyway found a place just above the accommodation which was a perfect sunset watching spot and went up there with Jac, a candle and a piccolo of Prosecco. A passing dog walker explained that the strange stone circle was the left over of a house that had been burnt out.  Jac thought I was a little crazy and just sat quietly by the car while I lit the candle and drank the Prosecco, sang a few songs, off key, of course and watched the sun set over the mountains.  And that was the end of our 2017.  I was glad I was on my own as it allowed me to give in to being a little maudlin and talked to the bloke, asking him why he did what he did. I was comforted by running texts from Em about their New Years with Bec and the boys.  It felt right, a bit sad, a bit marking the change in years, the loss of the bloke, the change in my life and the journey in front of me.  One of the things i had done in Sydney was to catch up with one of Erwin's sons and his wife and that seemed so right, being able to reminisce, share our memories and hear what was happening with them, gave me a sense of holding on to the connections we had while still looking to a different way of living.  

Trip to Canberra included another encounter with an animal - an echidna this time which Jac was quite wary of.  

An Air BnB in Canberra, Luxury Garden Studio, which it was.  In Red Hill, lots of green, large house, large blocks.  Beautifully self contained and thoughtful touches everywhere, from the crockery, to the furnishings, the bathroom with walk in shower and the private deck with table and chairs.  Jac was at home straight away and not even keen to walk in the park across the road.  Wouldn't recommend though if dog was a wanderer, Jac's not - she likes to stay close by, the yard was not secured, so okay for us but not for all.  Good base to go to work from, Jac is so good coming to work with me, sits quietly under the desk except when there is someone who wants to pat her.  Then the trip home.